Self-Rescue on Rock

Overview

Self-rescue on rock refers to the techniques and courses of actions taken by a rock climber to retreat or rescue their climbing partner from a situation which would have left them stranded or delayed to be rescued by external parties. It requires carrying lightweight rescue equipment such as pulleys and rescue cord, and an adequate first-aid kit for the types of injuries most associated with rock climbing (trauma, concussion, and shock). Quite often rock climbers have died because their climbing partners didn’t know how to reach them or because they didn’t carry first aid equipment besides a roll of tape.

To give perspective to the frequency of climbing accidents, since 1951-2013, 8,790 rock climbing accidents have been recorded in Canada and America by the American Alpine Club. Of those accidents:

45% were caused by falls on rock;
7.7% were caused by hit by falling rock or object;
6.6% were caused by exceeding abilities;
5.0% were caused by illness;
4.4% were caused by being stranded;
4.2% were caused by rappel failure or error;
3.1% were caused by exposure to weather; and
24% were caused by other reasons not listed.

Of those accidents, the primary reported injuries were the following:

27.8% resulted in fracture;
15.6% resulted in laceration;
10.5% resulted in bruising;
7.6% resulted in sprain/strain;
7.5% resulted in abrasion;
5.1% resulted in concussion;
3.5% resulted in hypothermia;
2.7% resulted in dislocation;
1.0% resulted in puncture;
13.3 resulted in other injures;
5.4% resulted in no injuries.

This can be simplified to about 72.7% trauma, 5.1% concussion, 3.5% hypothermia, and 13.3% other injuries. A climber’s first aid kit should be centered around trauma, with some of the essentials for dealing with shock, hypothermia, and other common outdoors injuries (bites and stings, blood-sugar emergencies, burns, and heart attacks).

On average, there were about 30 deaths per year between 1951-2013, totalling 1,860 deaths for all 8,790 reported climbing accidents (21%). Furthermore, there were an almost equal division of accidents involving beginner climbers, experienced climbers, and professional climbing guides. Self-rescue training should begin with the inexperienced rock climber learning how to toprope, then continue to be a developing skill in-line with their climbing ability as they progress through their years of rock climbing. Any guiding company offers courses in self-rescue for top roping, seconding, leading, multipitching, and bigwalling, but it is up to you to undertake them and consider them essential at each level of your climbing ability.

For first aid training, I recommend taking the 80-hours Wilderness First Responder Course. It is designed for people in the outdoors and focuses on the types of injuries that rock climbers can experience. My personal study notes for undertaking a Wilderness First Responder Course in Canada can be found here.

For first aid equipment, I always carry the following (at either the crag or on a multipitch):

1x Knife.
1x Irrigation syringe.
1x Tweezers.
1x Nail clippers.
1x Gloves.
1x Resuscitation Mask.
1x Sam Splint or Speed Splint.
1x Emergency blanket.
1x Compact sleeping pad.
2x Energy gels.
2x Finger splint.
2x Triangle bandage.
2x Roll bandage.
1x Abdominal pad.
2x Non-stick pad.
1x Cauterizing sponge or powder.
1x Tourniquet.
1x Burn cream.
1x Antiseptic cream.
1x Antihistamine cream.
1x Ankle tape.
1x Toilet paper.
2x 400 mg ibuprofen tablets (anti-inflammatory) (can be stacked with paracetamol for additional pain relief) (Ensure patient is well-hydrated before use) (One tablet every 4 hours).
2x 600 mg paracetamol tablets (pain relief) (One tablet every 4 hours).

Everything should fit into a small drybag, except for the sleeping pad and survival blanket.

For self-rescue equipment, I always carry the following on an individual screwgate carabiner, and clip it to the back of my harness:

1x 1-meter 6mm cord tied with a double-fisherman’s knot.
1x 4-meter 6mm cord untied and wrapped as a grenade (see how to tie it below).
1x Spare ATC Guide belay device (carried as a spare)
1x High-efficiency pulley
1x Petzl Micro Traxion
1x Petzl Tibloc.

How to tie a grenade with the 4-meter rescue cord:

Step 1. Go hands-free from the belay device and tie a catastrophe knot:

No matter what happens in a climbing accident, the first step is always this. You’ll be able to easily move around and assess the situation, and it’ll help unfreeze you from an initial state of shock.

1.a. Going Hands-Free from a Gri-Gri: If using a Gri-Gri in any belay method, tie an overhand on a bight on the brake strand close to the belay device. This prevents the rope from slipping backwards through the device.

1.b. Going Hands-Free on a Direct Belay with an ATC: An ATC in direct belay can be considered already hands-free. This is because the friction of the rope running over itself prevents the rope from slipping and lowering the climber.

1.c. Going Hands-Free on a Harness Belay with an ATC: Use the Slipped Half-Hitch and Overhand method:

Lock the belay device with your brake hand.
Pass a bight of rope, using the brake strand, through the locking carabiner. The brake hand remains on the rope, and the guide hand pulls the bight through the carabiner.
A second bight goes over the spine of the carabiner and through the first bight of rope. The brake hand remains on the rope, and the guide hand pulls the second bight through the first, forming a slipped half-hitch.
Allow the hitch to tighten, and then pull the slack strand through the hitch to allow enough rope/bight to tie an overhand on the main, loaded rope above the belay device.
To release the hitch, first untie the overhand. Next, slowly pull on the brake strand to release the slipped half-hitch and load the belay device.

1.d. Going Hands Free on a Munter Belay: Use the Slipped Half-Hitch and Overhand method:

Check that the Munter hitch is in the lowering/locked position.
Tie a slipped half-hitch around the loaded rope with the brake strand.
Tie an overhand around the loaded rope with the brake strand.

2. Tying a Catastrophe Knot. Attach a double-figure-eight on the brake strand 2-meters away from the device to your belay loop on your harness. The 2-meter gap allows you some room for assembling the rescue system.

Step 2. Carry out an ACB analysis to determine the best progression of steps:

A: Assessment:

Survey the scene. There are three things to consider:

Patient: Verbal response, physical and mental condition, call emergency response.
- Can you communicate with them?
- Are they able to continue climbing?
- Do they need first aid as soon as possible?
- Do they need to be evacuated?
Terrain: Rope-length to victim, hazards while lowering, available ledges.
- Where is the best place to be evacuated?
- Can they be lowered to the ground or a ledge? Will tying two ropes together achieve this?
- Will lowering or hauling the victim worsen their condition?
Confidence: What are you confident to do.
1. Ascend/descend/shelter-in-place.
2. Lower victim to ledge → go hands-free → backup the system.
3. Escape the belay to seek local assistance or some form of communication.

C: Course of Action:

Decide on the best course of action. There are three options: ascend, descend, or shelter-in-place.

For rescuing the seconder:

Ascend: Bring the seconder up.
1. Assisted Haul.
2. 3:1 Haul.
3. 5:1 Backside Haul.
4. 9:1 Haul.
5. Seconder ascends the rope.
Descend: Bring the seconder down.
1. Lower seconder to ledge – possibly tying ropes together for an extended lower.
  - Gri-Gri Lower Method; ATC Ratchet Lower Method; LSD Lower Method (5:1 Block and Tackle if weighted).
  - Tying two ropes together.
  - Passing a knot while lowering.
2. Counterweight rappel to the seconder, then continue to counterweight rappel together.
  - Passing a knot while rappelling.
  - Using counterweight rappelling with an unconscious victim.
  - Transitioning from an anchor with an unconscious victim.
  - Tandem rappel with the seconder from an anchor.
Shelter-in-place / Escape the Belay:
1. Counterweight lower to the seconder and stay to await rescue.
2. Counterweight lower to the seconder, stabilizes the seconder on the cliff, then self-rappel to leave the seconder and locate assistance. (Common for spinal injuries).

For rescuing the leader:

Ascend: Go up to the leader.
- Counterweight ascend to the leader.
  - Ascend partway and lower the leader to a ledge.
  - Ascend partway and build a higher anchor to allow a longer lower.
  - Ascend all the way to the leader to administer first aid and retreat with the leader’s rack.
Descend: Bring the leader down.
- Lower the leader to a ledge or the ground, possibly tying ropes together for an extended lower.
  - If the leader is greater than half a rope length from the belayer, a simple lower will not reach the belay station or ground. The leader may be able to perform a ‘leader retreat’ to bring the lowering point down to lower gear.
Shelter-in-place / Escape the Belay.
- Lower the leader to a ledge and stay to await rescue.
- Transfer the belay device to a tree or anchor to leave and locate assistance.

B: Belay Method:

Decide on the best progression of steps from your current belay method to your course of action. This is seeing how you can transition with the least possible number of steps, minimizing opportunities for error.

There are three belay methods with an ATC, Gri-Gri, or Munter Hitch:

Direct Belay. The belay device and the weight of the second climber is directly on the master point of the anchor. It is primarily used to belay a seconder, although it is sometimes used to belay a leader from a fixed-point belay in conjunction with a Munter Hitch.
Redirect Belay. The redirect belay is a type of harness belay for belaying a seconder where the load strand is redirected through a locking carabiner on the master point of the anchor to create an upward pull on the belayer. They are often used when the placement of the belay, such as after a traversing pitch, requires directional anchors close to the belay. Compared to the direct belay, it is easier to lose control of a falling climber using a redirected belay.
Harness Belay. With the harness belay, the belay device is attached to the belay loop of the harness. This is used when belaying a leader.

From left to right: Direct Belay; Redirect Belay; Harness Belay.

Step 3. Transition to the course of action:

For rescuing the seconder:

Ascend – Get the seconder up:

1. Assisted haul. This is the fastest way to ascend a seconder over a long way, however it requires having three-times the rope available as the distance from the belay device to the seconder.

Grab the brake strand where it comes off the stack or pile and pull some slack out of it, creating a loop that hangs from the back of the plaquette and from the stack. Clip a pulley and a carabiner into this loop.
Lower the carabiner-on-a-loop down to the stuck climber. Have the stuck climber clip the carabiner into his belay loop. Make sure the loop does not have any twists.
Tie a catastrophe knot. Untie the original catastrophe knot and pull. The seconder can also pull on the strand coming from the plaquette to assist, should he need to.

2. 3:1. This is the quickest hauling method to assemble and it is the best method to use with the seconder climbing in conjunction with it.

Place a friction hitch on the rope going down to the stuck climber.
Clip the brake strand into the friction hitch using a pulley, remove the catastrophe knot and pull.

3. 5:1 Backside. Beginning with a 3:1, this method adds a bit of extra mechanical advantage to haul the climber.

Place a friction hitch on the rope going down to the stuck climber.
Clip the backside of your clove hitch into the friction hitch. Push the friction hitch almost as far as you can down the rope toward the injured climber.
Tie a small bight with as small a loop as you can into the rope right where it comes out of the carabiner on the friction hitch. Using a small overhand on a bight helps keep the bight knot short.
Clip a carabiner into the bight knot and then clip the brake strand into that carabiner.
Untie the catastrophe knot and pull on the brake strand.

4. 9:1. Created identical to a 5:1, but with a second friction hitch for an even greater mechanical advantage.

Place a friction hitch on the rope going down to the stuck climber.
Clip the brake strand into the friction hitch using a pulley.
Place another friction hitch on the brake strand and move it close to the pulley on the first friction hitch.
Clip the brake strand to the anchor.
Now clip the brake strand to the second friction hitch using a pulley.
Untie the catastrophe knot and pull.

5. Ascend a fixed line. The last resort to ascending as it takes a considerable time to complete when compared to the other ascending methods. Have the seconder use Prusiks to ascend to a ledge or piece to secure to, then remove the Prusiks so the leader can pull up the slack in the rope.

Descend – Get the seconder down:

1. Lowering the seconder to a ledge – possibly tying ropes together for an extended lower to the ground. If the seconder is injured, the first possible course of action is to lower the seconder to the ground. This can be easily done using the Gri-Gri or ATC lowering methods described below, and if necessary, tying every rope together and passing the knots through the lowering belay device for an extended lower. Once the seconder has been lowered to the ground, the rescuer can then fix the end of the climbing rope to the anchor, and rappel down to the seconder and apply first aid.

a) Lowering on a Gri-Gri. When lowering a person on a Gri-Gri, Petzl recommends adding a direction carabiner to the anchor. This allows you to control the speed of the lower.

b) Lowering on an ATC using the Ratchet Lowering Method. This method can be quickly transitioned to from direct belaying, however it should only be used for short distances due to how slowly it feeds the rope. Simply ratchet the belay carabiner up and down while the seconder loads the rope, and the rope will feed through the device. If there are two seconders attached to the device, tie an overhand knot on the brake strand of the rope that doesn’t want to be lowered.

c) Lowering on an ATC using the LSD Lowering Method (including the 5:1 Block and Tackle if weighted). The LSD lower uses an additional biner on the anchor to defeat the auto-locking function of the ATC in guide mode. This method can take some time to set up, however it is recognised as the safest and most effective way to lower someone with an ATC in direct mode. The sequence is as follows:

1. Build an autoblock with a Prusik on the brake strand above the catastrophe knot. Clip it to your belay loop with a locker.

2. Hang a locking carabiner off the anchor in front of the device.

3.a) If the climber can unweight the rope: Ask the climber to unweight the rope. As he does so, clip his rope strand through the locker and lock it, and then he can sit back. At this point you’ve defeated the device and a bit of rope will slip through—your autoblock should engage and you’re now in the LSD lower.

3.b) If the climber cannot unweight the rope: Use the 5:1 Block-and-Tackle Hauling Method to raise up the rope (see below). As you do so, clip the ‘freed’ rope strand through the locker and lock it. Release the Block-and Tackle. The device will be defeated and a bit of rope will slip through—your autoblock should engage and you’re now in the LSD lower.

The 5:1 Block and Tackle Method:

1. 1. 1. Using a 4-meter cord, tie a Prusik on the loaded rope strand about half a meter from the device.
    2. Tie an overhand on the cord close to the Prusik and clip a locking carabiner between the Prusk and the overhand. Also clip a Carabiner on the anchor. The 5:1 will be created between these two carabiners.
    3. Run a single-strand of the cord from the overhand between the two carabiners 5 times so that the cord finishes facing downwards.
    4. Pull on the cord to activate the 5:1 and raise the climber enough to clip the ‘freed’ rope strand through the locker and lock it.

4. With one hand controlling the Prusik, and and the other hand holding the brake strand below the Prusik, slide the rope through the Prusik to lower the seconder.

d) Tying two ropes together for a extended lower. Always use the European Death Knot (Flat Overhand Knot). The EDK works with different diameter climbing ropes, static ropes, wet ropes, and frozen ropes. It is easy to inspect, easy to untie under normal loads, and is less likely to snag over edges and cracks when compared to using other knots. Here’s how to tie an EDK:

1. Using enough rope for tails on both ends (50cm for ropes, 30cm for cords), use both ends together to form a loop.
2. Pass the two ends through the loop.
3. Dress and pretension the knot. The knot should look symmetrical and have no crossovers.
4. Tighten each strand from the knot twice over (eight pulls). The knot needs to be as tight as possible to prevent it rolling over.
5. Inspect the knot. Don’t use the EDK for tying slings or webbing.

e) Passing a knot while lowering. Passing a knot while lowering is very similar to passing a knot while rappelling. Regardless of the belay device, the sequence is as follows:

1. Position the knot about one hand-length (8-inches) from the belay device. The device is now hands-free as the knot functions as a blocking knot to the device.
2. Tie a catastrophe knot two meters from the knot and clip it to your harness.
3. Using a 4-meter cord, create a technical ledge as close to the belay device on the loaded strand to the seconder as possible (see below how to tie a technical ledge).
4. Tighten the ledge as much as possible, then use a lower method such as the ATC Ratchet Method to transfer the weight of the seconder onto the ledge.
5. Remove the climbing rope from the belay device and reattach it to the other side of the knot to pass. Make sure the lowering method is setup correctly for lowering.
6. Untie the overhand of the technical ledge, then slowly lower the seconder using the munter hitch of the technical ledge to transfer the weight of the climber back to the belay device.
7. Continue lowering the seconder, removing the catastrophe knot after testing the lowering method.

2. Counterweight rappel to the seconder, then continue to counterweight rappel or tandem rappel from anchor to anchor to the ground. If there isn’t enough rope available to reach the ground in one lower, or lowering the seconder would worsen their injuries, then the rescuer can counterweight rappel to the injured seconder and then counterweight rappel together to reach the ground from anchor to anchor. This method is advantageous because it allows the rescuer to reach the seconder immediately in order to apply first aid. The sequence is as follows:

Part 1) Option 1: Lower to a natural ledge to unweight the rope. To transition into self-counterweight rappelling, the first step is to unweight the belay device. This can be achieved in one of two ways. The first way, which requires less effort, is to use the terrain. The sequence is as follows:

1. Lower the seconder to a nearby bolt or trad piece to secure to, or to a ledge, where they can be lowered to in order unweight themselves from the rope.
2. Once the rope has been unweighted, go hands-free from the belay device and tie a catastrophe knot.
3. Transition to Self-Counterweight Rappelling (Part 2).

Option 2: Use a Technical Ledge to unweight the rope. If a real ledge isn’t available, or the victim is unable to unweight the rope, then a technical ledge needs to be created by the rescuer to unweight the rope from the belay device. To create a technical ledge, the sequence is as follows:

1. Go hands-free and tie a catastrophe knot.
2. Use a 4-meter cord to tie a Prusik Hitch to the loaded strand of the rope about a foot from the belay device.
3. Tie an overhand on the 4-meter cord close to the Prusik Hitch to isolate it from the remainder of the technical ledge.
4. Clip a carabiner to the anchor and tie a munter hitch with both strands of the 4-meter cord around the carabiner.
5. Tie a slipped half-hitch and overhand around the loaded strand of the cord.
6. Pre-tension the 4-meter cord by sliding the Prusik Hitch down the loaded rope away from the belay device.
7. Lower the climber using the ATC Ratchet Lower Method or the Gri-Gri Lower Method to transfer the weight of the climber from the belay device to the 4-meter cord. This 4-meter cord is now the technical ledge.
8. Transition to Self-Counterweight Rappelling (Part 2).

Part 2) Transition to Self-Counterweight Rappelling. From unweighting the rope from the belay device, the sequence is as follows:

1. Clip a carabiner through the masterpoint of the anchor.
2. Clip the loaded rope through that carabiner.
3. Remove the belay device from the anchor and configure it to a rappel method to the rescuer.
4. Pre-tension the belay method and remove the technical ledge from the system.
5. Test the rappel method, then remove the catastrophe knot and rappel to the seconder. Keep constant tension on the loaded rope while rappelling, so the seconder doesn’t fly upwards.

Part 3) Transition to Partner-Counterweight Rappelling, beginning with creating a chest harness on the seconder to get them upright.

Option 1: Create a Chest Harness with a double-length sling. Known as a Parisian Baudrier Chest Harness, this harness will not constrict the victim’s chest. The sequence is as follows:

1. 1. Tie an overhand on a bight on each end of a double-length sling, with small loops for clipping a carabiner to both of them.
  2. Run one end underneath the victim’s arm, and the other end over and underneath the other victim’s arm.
  3. Clip a carabiner through both loops of the sling at the front of the victim’s chest, and clip the rope into that carabiner running from the victim’s waist harness.
  4. Use a short Prusik to tie an AutoBlock Hitch to the victim’s rope about a meter from the end and clip it to the chest harness’ carabiner.

Option 2: Create a Chest Harness with two single-length slings. Known as a Crossed-Sling Chest Harness. The sequence is as follows:

1. 1. Girth-hitch two single-length slings together.
  2. Make an ‘X’ on the victim’s back with the two slings, then slip both loops through the victim’s arms.
  3. Clip a carabiner through both loops of the sling at the front of the victim’s chest.
  4. Use a short Prusik to tie an AutoBlock Hitch to the victim’s rope about a meter from the end and clip it to the chest harness’ carabiner (see the right image above).

If the victim needs addition neck support, wrap a second chest harness around the Neck Brace Collar and attach it to the climbing rope above the initial chest harness.

Part 4) Finish Transitioning to Partner-Counterweight Rappelling. Connect yourself to the seconder’s rope from your belay loop to a Prusik above the chest harness Prusik with a 4-meter cord. The setup is now complete. Continue rappelling to the next anchor with your seconder. If the seconder is unconscious and the rock is vertical enough, you can wedge yourself between the seconder and the rock to ‘backpack’ the seconder down (see below).

Part 5) Passing a Knot While Rappelling. You can tie multiple ropes together for counterweight rappelling. The sequence to pass knots between ropes are as follows:

1. Position the knot about one hand-length (8-inches) from the belay device or Prusik hitch.
2. Tie a catastrophe knot two meters from the knot and clip it to your harness.
3. Using a 4-meter cord, create a technical ledge as close to the belay device on the loaded strand as possible.
4. Tighten the technical ledge as much as possible, then lower they belay device slightly to transfer the weight from the belay device to the technical ledge.
5. Remove the climbing rope from the belay device and reattach it to the other side of the knot. Make sure the lowering method is setup correctly and the belay device is pre-tensioned as close to the knot as possible.
6. Untie the overhand of the technical ledge, then slowly lower the leader using the munter hitch of the technical ledge to transfer the weight back to the belay device.
7. Continue lowering, removing the catastrophe knot after testing the lowering method.

(Insert images of each step for passing a knot while rappelling in counterbalance)

Part 6) Transitioning from Anchor to Anchor with an injured partner. The method illustrated utilizes a leash coupled with a load-releasable hitch. This system is used in the event the victim is severely incapacitated and you anticipate difficulties releasing the victim from the anchor. The sequence for this method is as follows:

1. Rappel with the injured partner to a comfortable position below the anchor and construct an anchor. Attach a masterpoint carabiner to the anchor if rappelling in Counterbalance (since the rope over the cord would slice it).
2. Leash yourself to the anchor.
3. Girth Hitch a double-length sling to the injured partner’s belay loop, then attach it with a carabiner to the anchor using a Mariner Knot (wrap the sling around the carabiner twice, then around itself away from the carabiner twice, then through itself).
4. Leash the injured partner with their personal leash to the anchor, leaving slack in the leash to it can be easily removed.
5. Pull the rope and attach it to the anchor for rappelling. Test the rappel method.
6. Remove the injured partner’s leash followed by untying the Mariner knot, then your own leash to begin rappelling.

Optional Part 7) Tandem Rappelling. Tandem rappelling can be used once the first anchor is reached together. This allows the rope to run directly through the anchor, since the rope won’t move across it while loaded. The disadvantage however is that it requires time to transition to, and it positions the climbers quite below the anchor. The seconder can be kept upright by connecting the chest harness to the belay device carabiner.

For rescuing the leader:

Be aware that rescuing a leader can be dangerous and may break the cardinal rule of self-rescue: that the anchor must be completely reliable before engaging a rescue system. Unlike all the methods described above for rescuing the seconder, which assumes the top piece/anchor is completely reliable, rescuing the leader may not allow inspection or reinforcement of the anchor before engaging systems. To further complicate matters, complex terrain, traverses, or half ropes split to a great degree can cause some of the methods to be impractical. If unsure of the safety of the system, it is best to locate assistance and not engage a self-rescue system. Otherwise, you may endanger the leader, yourself, and possibly the lives of others.

Ascend: Counterweight ascend to the leader.

This system is relatively simple, but can be dangerous. The top piece has not been inspected or reinforced, so the rescuer must assess the overall risk and utilize his or her best judgment if choosing to proceed with this type of self-rescue. On the bright side, the top piece has held the force of a leader fall, so hopefully it will be secure.

Before lowering a leader however, make sure that it is the best course of action. Lowering the leader into a position where you are unable to reach him or her is not the best solution. You may also end up in a situation where the leader and “rescuer” are both stranded off route and out of reach of suitable rappel anchors. Before lowering the leader, if possible, the leader should clip the rope with a leash (unclipping and reclipping during the descent) to remain within reach of the rescuer on overhanging or traversing terrain.

Depending on the situation, counterweight ascending can mean the following courses of action. The all begin the same way however (steps 1-3).

Ascend partway to a ledge or anchor, then lower the leader to that anchor.
Ascend partway to a ledge or anchor, then lower the leader to allow a longer lower.
Ascend and lower the leader at the same rate, or ascend to a stationary leader to gain access to the leader and leader’s rack to administer first aid, retreat, continue the pitch in place of the leader, or stabilize/ shelter in place.

Step 1: Use the terrain to your advantage. Lower the leader to the best location possible.

Step 2: Go hands-free and tie a catastrophe knot.

Step 3: Release yourself from the anchor.

Step 4: For ascending the rope, the rescuer has three options:

Counterweight ascend using the weight of the leader to assist while climbing, while the leader is lowered at the same rate. Keep the belay device hands-free with the catastrophe knot in place.
If the leader is stuck or not descending, the rescuer can ascend the rope using Prusiks or a Gri-Gri and a Prusik, while continuing to add backup knots as they ascend the rope.
If the leader is stuck or not descending on easy terrain, the rescuer can french free the climb while sliding two offset tandem Prusik hitches up the rope to help safeguard them from a fall.

Step 5: Once the rescuer has reached the leader, they can apply first aid and transition to counterweight lowering by attaching themselves to the climber’s end of the rope with a Prusik.

Descend: Bring the Leader down:

1. Escape the belay. If the leader can’t be lowered to the ground by the belayer, the belayer can transfer the belay device from their harness to a tree in order to go get help. To achieve this, follow the following steps:

With the climber tensioned to the belay device, belay yourself over to a nearby tree so it is within reach.
Keeping the belay device tensioned on the climber, go hands-free and tie a catastrophe knot.
Using the end of the climbing rope, tie a bowline knot with a stopper knot around the tree. If you can’t remember how to tie a bowline, tie a double-figure-eight around the tree the same way you tie-in.
Tie a double-figure-eight on the bight besides the bowline knot, and a second double-figure-eight on the bight besides the belay device before the catastrophe knot.
Connect these two knots together with a screwgate or opposite-and-opposed carabiners.
Now walk forward to the cliffs so that the weight transfers from the belay device to the rope system going around the tree. Untie from the belay device when this is achieved and go find help.

(Insert images of escaping the belay)

2. Lower the leader to the ground, a ledge, or an anchor with a Prusik backup.

Go hands-free and tie a catastrophe knot.
Add a Prusik backup to the lowering method if using a non-auto-locking belay device. This ensures a controlled lower for the injured victim, as well as makes passing knots easier.
Test the lowering method, remove the catastrophe knot, and proceed with lowering the leader.

(Insert images of lowering from a harness belay)

3. Have the leader reset the top anchor. If there is insufficient rope to lower the leader to the ground, have the leader reset the lowering anchor to one of the bolts or pieces of protection on the climb. The method is as follows:

Lower the leader to a suitable piece of protection.
Have the leader secure into the piece and weight it.
Have the leader pull a bight of rope through the piece and clip it to their harness belay loop using a double-figure eight knot.
Have the leader untie and pull the rope through the top anchors.
Have the leader tie-in to the end of the rope using a double-figure eight knot, then unclip and untie the figure-eight knot from the bight of rope.
Finally, the belayer lowers the leader.

4. Tie two ropes together for an extended lower. If a second rope is available, tie it to the end of the lead rope and perform an extended lower.

To pass a knot while lowering off a harness belay is the same as passing a knot while rappelling:

Position the knot about one hand-length (8-inches) from the belay device or Prusik hitch.
Tie a catastrophe knot two meters from the knot and clip it to your harness.
Using a 4-meter cord, create a technical ledge as close to the belay device on the loaded strand as possible.
Tighten the technical ledge as much as possible, then lower they belay device slightly to transfer the weight from the belay device to the technical ledge.
Remove the climbing rope from the belay device and reattach it to the other side of the knot. Make sure the lowering method is setup correctly and the belay device is pre-tensioned as close to the knot as possible.
Untie the overhand of the technical ledge, then slowly lower the leader using the munter hitch of the technical ledge to transfer the weight back to the belay device.
Continue lowering, removing the catastrophe knot after testing the lowering method.

(Insert images of passing a knot while lowering)